Le Smoking Returns to the Spotlight at Saint Laurent’s Paris Fashion Week Show

The house of Saint Laurent returned to the runway during Paris Fashion Week on March 3 with its Autumn Winter 2026 ready to wear collection, placing one of fashion’s most influential garments firmly back at the centre of attention. Creative director Anthony Vaccarello presented a show that revisited the legacy of the iconic Le Smoking suit while reaffirming the house’s enduring approach to sharp tailoring and modern elegance.

The runway opened with a series of black tuxedo suits inspired by Le Smoking, the groundbreaking design introduced in 1966 by founder Yves Saint Laurent. Created originally as a tuxedo for women, the piece challenged established conventions of gender and formalwear. At the time of its debut, the androgynous silhouette was considered radical. Only a single piece reportedly sold from the initial collection, yet the design later became a defining symbol of female empowerment and modern power dressing.

Six decades later, the garment remains central to the identity of the Parisian fashion house. Vaccarello’s presentation featured fourteen interpretations of the tuxedo, worn by models with relaxed confidence as they moved through a modernist glass set overlooking the illuminated Eiffel Tower. The collection emphasised precise tailoring with single and double breasted jackets, narrow lapels and elongated silhouettes that drew inspiration from the structured aesthetics of late twentieth century fashion.

While the dominant palette remained black, the show incorporated subtle shifts in colour with tones such as burnt sienna, teal, brown and French blue appearing throughout the lineup. The restrained colour scheme reinforced the focus on tailoring while maintaining a sense of understated sophistication.

Beyond the classic tuxedo suits, the collection explored contrasting expressions of glamour. Lacquered lace dresses introduced a hint of Jazz Age opulence, while oversized faux fur coats and sculptural gold jewellery added dramatic texture to the runway. One of the more striking pieces included a translucent vinyl trench coat that brought a modern material edge to the otherwise timeless silhouettes.

Vaccarello also referenced cinematic and literary influences in shaping the mood of the collection. The designer drew inspiration from the 1971 film Max et Les Ferrailleurs and the performances of actress Romy Schneider, alongside works by prominent literary figures including Tennessee Williams and Gore Vidal. Their writing, often centred on themes of identity, intimacy and vulnerability, informed the emotional tone of the show.

The presentation also marked ten years since Vaccarello assumed creative leadership at Saint Laurent. During his tenure, the designer has frequently revisited the house’s most recognisable codes, including the sleek tailoring and confident silhouettes first established by its founder.

Despite broader shifts in the luxury fashion market, Saint Laurent continues to play a significant role within the global industry. The brand is owned by the French luxury conglomerate Kering, which reported annual revenue of approximately €2.6 billion for the label last year, reflecting a slight decline compared with the previous year. Even so, major retailers note that the brand remains commercially resilient and culturally influential.

For the Paris fashion scene, the event also highlights the continued global significance of Paris Fashion Week. As one of the industry’s most influential showcases, the event draws designers, buyers and cultural figures from around the world and remains a major economic and creative moment for the French capital.

With the return of Le Smoking, Saint Laurent once again demonstrated the lasting power of a design that reshaped modern fashion. Sixty years after its introduction, the tuxedo continues to embody the house’s distinctive balance of elegance, confidence and quiet rebellion.

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